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Season 3: All about the Lash & Brow Serum

Active Ingredient & Mechanism of Action for Eyelashes and Eyebrows

Dr. Manfred Groeppel, Dr. Anne Asmuß 23.06.2026 01:48

In summary

  • The active ingredient in the 8T3 Essentials Lash & Brow Serum is soluble CD83, a protein identified by Prof. Dr. Alexander Steinkasserer 25 years ago and the scientific foundation of all Mallia products. 
  • The mechanism of action is the same for eyelashes and scalp hair: the serum diffuses passively into the hair follicle canal and induces hair growth there. 
  • Eyelash follicles and scalp hair follicles are structurally identical, but their growth cycles differ considerably: eyelashes complete their cycle in 4 to 7 months, while scalp hair takes 3 to 7 years. 
  • Hair itself is simply a strand of keratin that cannot be directly influenced. Growth starts at the follicle, the living part of the hair, and that is precisely where soluble CD83 takes effect.
FAQ

Active Ingredient & Mechanism of Action for Eyelashes and Eyebrows

Which active ingredient in the 8T3 Essentials Lash & Brow Serum promotes eyelash growth?
The active ingredient is soluble CD83, a protein identified by Professor Dr. Alexander Steinkasserer 25 years ago. He has been researching this molecule for 25 years, and it now forms the scientific foundation of all Mallia products and the 8T3 Essentials Lash & Brow Serum.
Is the mechanism of action the same for eyelashes and scalp hair?
Yes, the mechanism of action is identical. The 8T3 Essentials Lash & Brow Serum diffuses passively into the hair follicle canal and induces hair growth there, in exactly the same way it works on scalp hair.
How does an eyelash follicle differ from a scalp hair follicle?
Structurally, they are the same. The meaningful difference is in the growth cycle: eyelashes complete theirs in 4 to 7 months, while scalp hair takes 3 to 7 years to go through the same process.
Does the active ingredient work directly on the hair or on the follicle?
Hair itself is only a strand of keratin and cannot be directly influenced. Promoting hair growth means working at the follicle level, and that is exactly where soluble CD83 takes effect.
Can research results on scalp hair be applied to eyelashes?
Yes, because hair follicles and eyelash follicles are structurally identical, scientific findings from scalp hair research apply directly to eyelashes and brows.

Description

The active ingredient behind the 8T3 Essentials Lash & Brow Serum is soluble CD83, a protein identified by Professor Alexander Steinkasserer 25 years ago. He has been researching this molecule ever since, and it now forms the scientific basis of all Mallia products. 

The mechanism of action is fundamentally the same for eyelashes and scalp hair: the serum diffuses passively into the hair follicle canal and induces hair growth there. Because eyelash follicles and scalp hair follicles are anatomically identical, research findings from scalp hair studies can be applied directly to eyelashes and brows. 

What distinguishes them is the length of the growth cycle. Eyelashes complete their cycle in 4 to 7 months, while scalp hair takes 3 to 7 years. This is why results with the 8T3 Essentials Lash & Brow Serum become visible relatively early. 

Hair itself is a strand of keratin that cannot be directly influenced. Promoting growth requires working at the follicle level, the living part of the hair. That is exactly where soluble CD83 makes its difference.

Experts

Dr. Manfred Groeppel
Dr. Manfred Groeppel
Dr. Anne Asmuß
Dr. Anne Asmuß
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