Hormone-free eyelash serum
The desire for long, full lashes is as old as the cosmetics industry itself. Eyelash serums were a breakthrough: products that can actually accelerate lash growth. But then the side effects came to light – discolored eyes, dark shadows, irritated conjunctiva. The reason: hormone-like active ingredients that interfere deeply with biological processes.
Today, better solutions are available. Hormone-free eyelash serums rely on alternative mechanisms that support lash growth – without the well-known risks associated with hormone-based ingredients. In this article, you’ll learn how to identify a truly high-quality hormone-free lash serum and which ingredients you should consciously avoid.
How can you tell whether an eyelash serum contains hormones?
In theory, the answer should be simple: you check the ingredient list. In practice, however, that’s often easier said than done. Many people find the information on packaging confusing – chemical terms, Latin wording, and so-called INCI names (the internationally standardized names for cosmetic ingredients) can quickly read like a foreign language. That makes it even more important to know exactly what you’re applying to your eyelids night after night – especially when hormone-like substances are involved.
Prostaglandin analogues: the critical ingredients.
When people talk about “hormones” in eyelash serums, they are usually referring to prostaglandin analogues (PGAs): synthetically produced substances that mimic the effects of naturally occurring tissue hormones. They were originally developed to treat increased intraocular pressure.* Their lash-enhancing effect was merely a side effect – one the cosmetics industry later adopted. These PGAs directly influence the lash growth cycle. They prolong the growth phase, activate dormant follicles, and increase density. That can work – often within two to three weeks. However, these serums can also come with a range of side effects. You can find the relevant ingredients on the packaging. If you see names like “Black Sea Rod Oil” or anything containing “-prost,” it indicates an eyelash serum with PGA “hormones.”
*Source: https://health.ec.europa.eu/document/download/14b09ba4-0113-4b4d-b4e8-5e94bb13a3bc_en
The following ingredients* are commonly found:
- Alprostadil
- Bimatoprost
- Diethylphthalate
- Iloprost
- Latanoprost
- Methylamido-Dihydro-Noralfaprostal
- Misoprost
- Tafluprost
- Travoprost
Important to know: if even one of these terms appears, it is a hormone-containing eyelash serum. In June 2025, the EU scientific committee SCCS classified several active substances as not safe for use in eyelash and eyebrow cosmetics. These include the prostaglandin analogues MDN (Methylamido-Dihydro-Noralfaprostal), Isopropyl Cloprostenate (IPCP), and DDDE.*
Transparency as a hallmark of quality.
Transparency is not reflected in isolated buzzwords. It shows in how manufacturers handle their ingredients. Trustworthy brands clearly disclose which classes of active ingredients are included. Instead of vague or overly flexible claims, the packaging provides traceable information, easy-to-understand explanations, and a complete INCI declaration. In addition, certifications from independent institutes, dermatological testing, and ophthalmological studies can offer helpful guidance. They signal that safety, tolerability, and responsible product development are the priorities.
Why hormones in eyelash serums can be problematic.
The question is fair: if hormone-based serums work so well, why not just accept it? Because hormonal active ingredients can be associated with unwanted side effects. The most common include:
- Dark discoloration of the skin around the eyes: This can result from increased melanin production and often does not fully fade.
- Iris discoloration: Especially in light-colored eyes, the eye color can change permanently.
- Loss of fat tissue under the eyes: This so-called fat atrophy can make the face look tired and sunken. It is an effect that often only becomes noticeable after months.
- Eye irritation: Red, dry, or itchy eyes are among the most common side effects, and can be particularly problematic for contact lens wearers.
- Allergic reactions: Eye redness, conjunctivitis, or inflammation along the eyelid margin.
- Pregnant and breastfeeding women should not use these products: The hormones they contain may also affect the body.
Our tip: By choosing a hormone-free eyelash serum, you can avoid all of these risks.
Which hormone-free eyelash serum is the best?
The range of options has grown. As soon as you type “best hormone-free eyelash serum” into Google, countless brands claim that their product is the best. More and more manufacturers are recognizing that consumers are looking for alternatives. However, not every hormone-free serum delivers on its promises. Some rely only on conditioning ingredients that make lashes feel softer, but do not actually support real growth. Others combine various active ingredients whose effects are hardly supported by scientific evidence.
To help you find your way, we compared hormone-free eyelash serums:
| Product | Main active ingredient | Key features | Application | First results |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| 8T3 Essentials Lash & Brow Serum | MAL-838 (sCD83) | Patented, dermatologically tested, vegan, microbiome-friendly | Once daily | Approx. 3–4 weeks |
| Natucain Eyelash Serum | Plant-based peptides, hyaluronic acid | Natural formula, vegan, dermatologically tested | Once daily | 6–8 weeks |
| Olaplex Lashbond Building Serum | Peptide complex | Clinically tested, vegan, and cruelty-free | Twice daily | 2–4 weeks |
| andmetics Brow & Lash Booster | Plant extracts, peptides | For brows and lashes, silicone-free | Once daily | 2–3 weeks |
| Nu Skin Lash + Brow Serum | Peptides, biotin | For sensitive skin, ophthalmologically tested | Once daily | 4–5 weeks |
What the overview shows.
At first glance, the products mainly differ in how quickly you may see initial results. However, the key difference lies elsewhere: in the type of active ingredient. Most serums rely on conditioning ingredients such as peptides, biotin, or plant oils. These substances help strengthen the existing lash structure, nourish the hair follicles, and reduce breakage. However, they only support true growth to a limited extent, meaning noticeably longer lashes through an extended growth phase. One serum that takes a completely different approach is the 8T3 Essentials Lash & Brow Serum. We would like to explain below what exactly is behind this new mechanism of action.
Innovation instead of imitation.
What sets 8T3 apart from other hormone-free eyelash serums is the active ingredient MAL-838. It is a biotechnologically produced, optimized form of the body’s own protein sCD83. It plays a central role in regulating inflammatory processes and supporting tissue regeneration. Mallia Aesthetics, the company behind 8T3, has researched this protein for more than 20 years and further developed it for use on eyelashes and eyebrows. The mechanism of action is complex, but it can be explained in simplified terms as follows:
- MAL-838 activates stem cells at the hair follicle. These stem cells are responsible for new hair growth. When they are stimulated, the growth phase of the lashes is extended. And longer growth phases mean longer lashes.
- It reduces inflammatory processes. Chronic micro-inflammation around the follicle is a common, often unnoticed cause of thin, brittle lashes and brows. MAL-838 has anti-inflammatory effects and helps create a healthy environment for growth.
- It supports keratin production. Keratin is the main building block of hair. More keratin means stronger lashes and fuller eyebrows.
The result: Lashes – and, if you want, fuller brows – that are not only stronger, but healthier. And all of that without hormonal interference, without prostaglandin derivatives, and without the typical side effects. Tolerability was rated “Excellent” by Dermatest. The 8T3 Essentials eyelash and eyebrow serum is vegan, microbiome-friendly, free from alcohol, fragrance, and parabens.
Effects and application.
An eyelash serum can do a lot – provided it is used correctly. That is why it is worth understanding a few basic principles.
How hormone-free eyelash serums work.
To better understand the effects, it helps to look at the natural growth cycle of an eyelash. It consists of three phases*:
- Anagen phase – the active growth phase in which the lash grows longer. This phase lasts about 30 to 45 days.
- Catagen phase – a short transition phase in which growth stops and the follicle retreats.
- Telogen phase – the resting phase, after which the old lash sheds and makes room for a new one.
*Source: https://youneeq.de/wissen/wie-schnell-wachsen-wimpern/
Hormone-free eyelash serums influence this cycle at different points. Conditioning ingredients supply the follicle with nutrients and strengthen the hair structure. Innovative active ingredients such as MAL-838, on the other hand, specifically extend the anagen phase and activate dormant follicles.
How to apply the hormone-free eyelash serum from 8T3 Essentials correctly.
Application is straightforward, but it should be done consistently:
- Apply in the evening: The body’s regeneration processes run at full speed overnight, which makes nighttime the ideal time to use an eyelash serum.
- Cleanse the skin thoroughly: Remove all makeup and mascara. The serum works best on clean, dry skin.
- Apply with the brush: Use the integrated brush like an eyeliner along the upper lash line. A thin line is enough. Wipe off excess serum on the bottle neck first.
- For eyebrows: Apply the serum sparingly to the areas you want to make look fuller.
- Let it absorb: The water-based serum absorbs quickly. After a few minutes, you can continue with your usual skincare routine.
- Once daily: More does not mean better. Consistency matters more than quantity.
Please note: If you have a sensitive eye area, we recommend reducing the frequency of use and applying the serum only two to three times per week.
Which eyelash serum really works?
The answer depends on what you mean by “works.” If you simply want your lashes to break less and feel softer, an affordable serum with biotin and peptides may be enough. However, if you want visibly longer, fuller lashes with lasting results, you need a product with an active ingredient that directly influences the lash growth cycle – such as the Lash & Brow Serum from 8T3 Essentials.
How long can you use an eyelash serum?
With hormone-based serums, many dermatologists advise not using them continuously for longer than three to six months, because the risk of side effects can increase over time. A hormone-free eyelash serum, by contrast, can generally be used long term. However, make sure to follow the product’s period-after-opening shelf life once you have started using it.
Hormone-free eyelash serum during pregnancy.
Hormone-based eyelash serums are not recommended during pregnancy and breastfeeding. The active ingredients may affect hormonal balance, even if they are applied only locally. In that respect, hormone-free serums are generally a safer option. They do not interfere with hormonal processes and are designed to work locally.
That said, you should still speak with your doctor before using any product. Not because hormone-free serums are considered dangerous, but because every pregnancy is individual and caution is always the best choice.
Conclusion: lashes that last.
Hormone-free eyelash serums are more than just a safer alternative to hormone-based products. The 8T3 Essentials Lash & Brow Serum combines scientific innovation with the highest standards of safety. The active ingredient MAL-838 is unique, the formula is consistently reduced to what matters most, and tolerability has been confirmed by independent institutes. If you are looking for a hormone-free eyelash serum that does not just condition, but truly supports lash growth, this is a well-founded and effective solution.
FAQ: Frequently asked questions about “hormone-free eyelash serum”.
